My trusty Digitech QM1323 multimeter hasn’t been so reliable recently. It has been flaky with its readings, and I thought it might be faulty connections where the leads plug into the multimeter. Resistance and voltage readings seemed like they only worked sometimes, and I was always pushing or turning the leads where they plugged in.
Here is an easy mod for your Logitech pedals which gets rid of that annoying metallic clack when the pedals extend fully after you lift your foot. They are noisy things out of the box, more so with stiffer springs. A bit of adhesive Velcro, a flathead and Philips screw driver are all that’s required.
Unfortunately, when I started driving with my new OSW direct drive wheel, I noticed that my braking was a bit random and unpredictable. I checked the raw output with DXTweak, and I could see the signal from the brake pedal load cell was spiking and jumping around with noise. I figured it must be interference from the big servo motor on my direct drive steering wheel, and I embarked on a multi-day mission to figure out how to fix it. Direct drive motors are pushing a lot of current at a high PWM switching frequency (3.4 kHz), that they are bound to put out some EMI.
My OSW direct drive steering wheel is up and running, with a Granite Devices Ioni servo drive on an Ionicube 1x board. I’m on a budget, so I built everything possible from timber, with many hours of work. I used some 100 year old palings from a fence we pulled down, which are a beautiful dark hardwood. I also made an adaptor for the Momo to clamp onto the motor shaft from timber, I shaped a circular piece of timber, cut a 24mm hole, and cut it into two c shaped pieces, with m6 bolts to clamp onto the shaft. It works perfectly. I didn’t need to buy a motor mount, enclosure, and b-com connector for the steering wheel, saving hundreds of dollars. I’m very happy with how it’s worked out.
I picked up a Mitsu HF-SP102 servo motor for my OSW direct drive wheel project. It’s much lighter than a Mige 130, weighing only 6.5kg. I also like that it is made in Japan. It has lower inertia than the Mige, and it should put out enough torque (constant 5Nm at 6A RMS, and maximum 15Nm with 16A RMS).
Dirt Rally is a great game, even while it is early access. If you are playing Dirt Rally, then you will want to have a handbrake. Buttons on the wheel don’t work very well in my opinion, they’re hard to press while you’re turning the wheel trying to initiate a slide.